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History on the Half-Shell by Rebecca Penovich on 2006-03-11

"Aw Shucks, Oysters!" was the name of the sold-out event the National Capital Area Chapter of the AIWF held at Hank's Oyster Bar on Feb 25th.  Ryan and Travis Croxton of Rappahannock River Oysters (http://www.rroysters.com) shucked hundreds of their local oysters for the crowd and told their fantastic story.

With the oyster business dead in the Rappahanock and their family history in the industry stretching back for generations, they weren’t willing to just give it up.  They revived their great-grandfather's business and now they are fighting to bring the bay back – to the delight of such notables at Eric Ripert, Rick Moonen, and other great chefs who appreciate their oysters.

In 1899, 24-year-old J.A. Croxton purchased just a few acres of fertile Rappahannock River bottom near Butylo, Virginia, looking to supplement a modest farm income.  What he probably never imagined was creating a company that would go on to endure and prosper for more than a century.

In 1961, after nearly 30 years of working with his father and his brother, William Arthur Croxton, Sr., assumed full control of the company and concentrated its efforts in Butylo, Virginia, where RRO still retains some 100-plus acres of leased oyster ground.

Around 1994, his sons, Ryan and Travis Croxton, left their corporate jobs to relaunch Rappahannock River Oysters, the Virginia-based company founded by their great-grandfather in 1899.

Ryan, 35, and Travis, 30, farm their oysters in cages a foot off the sea floor, preserving the habitat. Their eco-consciousness is good for the oysters: sweet York River, buttery Rappahannock and boldly briny Olde Salts. They took their first oysters in the back door of Le Bernadin – Eric Ripert tasted them, loved them, ordered on the spot – so the guys packed their car full of oysters and hand delivered to NYC!

Now they're in some of the best restaurants in the country, including Le Bernadin in NYC, Equinox in Washington, DC, and Alan Wong's in Honolulu.

Jamie Leeds, chef/owner of Hank's Oyster Bar (http://www.hanksdc.com/) showered AIWF with small course after small course of oysters.  After trying the three varieties of Rappahannock River oysters raw--Olde Salts, Stingrays, and York Rivers--Jamie served fried oysters with remoulade, oyster and sake shooters, barbecued oysters, and Oysters Rockefeller.  All washed down with cold beer or a sprightly Muscadet and plenty of bread to mop up the briny sauces.

Jamie is also continuing a family tradition--her restaurant is named after her father, Hank, an avid fisherman and is reminiscent of the beach shack food she liked to eat during her summer on the Jersey shore.

 

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